Good and Badrutt's

The new place south of downtown isn't perfect, but it's seriously versatile.

It's seemingly a rule of law in our swampy little corner of paradise that every restaurant must offer tiramisu ($7.50) — the culinary equivalent of the undead — but ours was commendably fresh and tasty. The perfect zabaglione ($8) will, for now at least, remain an unrequited love, because the version Badrutt's (and every other restaurant in these parts) serves is more chilled mousse than the slightly warm, ethereal froth of frantically whipped-to-order eggs, Marsala, and sugar that haunts my dreams.

Dr. Phil, I need your help.

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