Recession Busters

Meet the real Miami spice, at a price that's real nice.

Nihari, popular in Pakistan, Bangladesh, and among Indian muslims, is known as "the breakfast curry" because workers sometimes start their day with it. Dewan's rendition is a stew of softly braised beef culled from the shank — the "curry" sauce being more like beef gravy and too obviously thickened with cornstarch. We much preferred the vegetable curry: a medley of carrots, potatoes, spinach, and onions flecked with fennel seeds and electric with amber-colored spices. The meat of a goat curry was tender but lacked curry flavor; it's possible our server brought us the wrong dish, but it was enticing enough for us not to care. As I say — very informal.

Joe Rocco

Location Info

Map

Dewan Restaurant

16606 N. Miami Ave.
Miami Gardens, FL 33169

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Miami Gardens

Jamaican Kitchen

8736 SW 72nd St.
Kendale Lakes, FL 33173

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: East Kendall/Pinecrest

Details

Dewan Restaurant: 16606 N. Miami Ave., Miami; 305-919-8184. Open for lunch and dinner daily noon to 11 p.m. Jamaica Kitchen: 8736 Sunset Dr., Miami; 305-596-2585. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

On one occasion, Dewan's TV set was tuned to CNN and blaring; they gladly turned the volume down upon request. To tell the truth, given that a plate of chicken tikka for three costs $9, and a credible gulab jamun just $1.25, I wouldn't have minded if the set was fixed on FOX. And when a "family dinner" that feeds four or five — including a plate each of shish kebabs and boti kebabs, nan bread, and a whole tandoori chicken — is $29.99, I might even brave American Gladiators braying in the background. On second thought, maybe not, but the point is that everything here is 10 bucks or less (cash only). Now that's Miami spice at a nice price.

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