Dutch Treat

Taking a journey to South Kendall is not my idea of a culinary adventure. But last night at the urging of dear friends who lived in the area years ago, I visited a charming little family owned restaurant by the name of Gil Capa's. Owned and operated by Gil who is Italian and Carmen, who is Peruvian the tastes blended together in their food are as perfect as they seem to be as a couple.

The restaurant seats about thirty diners and has a perfectly sized menu of about forty items divided among appetizers, soups, salads, entrees, deserts and beverages. Prices are extremely reasonable. The wine list is adequately sized with good and reasonably priced Italian and American wines.

A beautiful platter of garlic buns (freshly baked by Gil) was a perfect introduction to the restaurant. Next came the spaghetti served as a first course here instead of with the main course. The tomato sauce was delicious, more concentrated and intensely flavored than usual, and the freshly grated real Parmigiano was a good complement.

Next we were served our main courses of veal Marsala and penne al Forno. The Marsala sauce was perfectly done, similar to Marsala in some of New York's best Italian restaurants. It was brown, medium thick, slightly sweet with intense Marsala wine flavor and loaded with big slices of fresh mushrooms. The veal was tender and the size of the portion was adequate- not large, but enough to satisfy most appetites. The penne al Forno had beautifully sauteed eggplant which was very tender and not at all bitter as some eggplant tends to be if not cooked just right.

To cap off the evening, the Capas sat with us for about an hour after a thirty year old video of Luciano Pavoroti had finished playing on their sixty inch television. They have been in the restaurant business for over thirty years and at this location since two months prior to Hurricane Andrew (according to Carmen).

It is a wonderful little neighborhood restaurant that would have lines around the block if it were in New York City. Unfortunately even though Gil Capa's is located in a small strip mall anchored by a Dryclean USA and a liquor store and is surrounded by a housing complex, their regular customers probably come once a month instead of the once a week or more that this restaurant deserves.

Again prices are very reasonable with most entrees with a side of pasta and those great garlic buns going for $15.00 or less (steak is $18.00). I had a good bottle of Montepulciano for $22.00. All in all, a wonderful experience and priced exactly right.

Gil Capa's Bistro 305-273-1102