True Grits

The Hawk should be in the Hall. So should his banana pudding

Comments (0) By Lee Klein Thursday, Apr 5 2007

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Sunday Supper begins in the afternoon, when Mahogany becomes packed with a well-dressed, postchurch crowd eager to chow down and have a good time. The bill of fare is not that different from the regular weekly menu, but does contain a few special selections such as those turkey wings, and baked ham, and heavenly banana pudding with crushed Nilla Wafers layered in — reason enough to circle Sunday on your calendar. You may also want to make note of Friday and Saturday evenings from 9:00 p.m. to midnight, when live jazz has this place reallyjumping.

Bread pudding provides comforting consolation on banana-less days, as does a fluffy white coconut layer cake, and plain, pumpkiny, sweet potato pie. Classic red velvet cake, Elvis's favorite, was a little dry.

JOE ROCCO

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The Mahogany Grille

2190 NW 183rd St.
Miami Gardens, FL 33056

Category: Restaurant > Soul Food

Region: Miami Gardens

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2190 NW 183rd St, Miami Gardens; 305-626-8100. Open Wednesday and Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m. to midnight, Saturday 7:00 a.m. to midnight, Sunday 7:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.

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Few restaurant staffs go as far out of their way to make you feel at home as this one does; if waiters were judged solely by congeniality, this crew would be the best there is. Alas that's not the way it works, and there is no getting around the fact that on both visits we were left waiting way too long for too many things (I'm not asking for fast food, just not food quite this slow). Yet while the dining room team has a ways to go before qualifying for any Hall of Fame honors, and the fare, especially appetizers, has a little ways to go, too, The Mahogany Grille delights because of a certain intangible, but crucial, something so many places lack. It's got soul.

2190 NW 183rd St, Miami Gardens; 305-626-8100. Open Wednesday and Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m. to midnight, Saturday 7:00 a.m. to midnight, Sunday 7:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.