Top Chef

The hullabaloo over Bouley’s Evolution is justified. And then some.

Service was suave as well, with all of our needs accommodated in seamless and exceedingly competent fashion by a stellar front-of-house team that encompasses waiters, runners, bread servers, water pourers, and an intuitive — but not intrusive — sommelier. This last gentleman offers adept assistance in navigating the extensive wine list that is heavy on haute vintners, but inclusive of worthwhile picks in the affordable $45-$60 range. For a true culinary tour de force, try the chef's tasting menu with wine pairing ($160).

Because our waiters were so skilled in offering detailed descriptions of every dish served, it was surprising that we were never told about the sushi menu, nor informed of the domestic and imported cheeses by Terrance Brennan Artisanal Connoisseurs. So, sans cheese plate, we segued straight into dessert, topfen palatschinken, a delicate round of crêpe plumped with a blintzlike sweet cheese and sided by a divine quenelle of huckleberry-sour cream ice cream. An "eight-minute soufflé" filled with warm Valrhona chocolate was a textbook rendition of the restaurant world's omnipresent "flourless-molten-lava-volcano" chocolate cake, presented with three scoops of vibrantly flavored ice creams on the side. Crme brùlée came three ways, too (Tahitian vanilla, green tea and banana), and was likewise executed with aplomb — meaning custardy centers and crunchy crowns.

Overhyped restaurants and chefs are as common as key lime pie, so to dine here and experience such exquisitely sublime flavors elicits a sort of childish glee — like what I imagine a lifelong Floridian might feel upon first encountering snow. The hullaballoo over Bouley's Evolution is justified. And then some.

JOE ROCCO

Location Info

Map

The Ritz-Carlton, South Beach

1 Lincoln Road
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Hotels and Resorts

Region: South Beach

Details

David Bouley Evolution The Ritz-Carlton South Beach, 1669 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-604-6090. Open for dinner Sunday through Thursday 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. √Čtoile Lounge open Sunday to Thursday 5:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.
David Bouley Evolution,

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