Luna Rocks

For reasonable Italian food with stellar service, the Billantes can’t be beat

A fresh napoleon of flaky puff pastry leaking runny vanilla pastry cream proved a hit at our table, as did a chocolate-coated ball of tortoni with marzipan-enhanced pistachio ice cream center. Neither had been our first choice, nor was the ricotta cheesecake, which was a bit on the dry side. Our two requested desserts had, in fact, been unavailable, which led to the waiter sincerely apologizing and then the manager coming over to apologize and eventually desserts being offered on the house. Luna's modus operandi: Keep the customer satisfied. The staff here does this as well as anyone — and as smoothly and naturally as the moon passing through Earth's penumbral shadow.

JOE ROCCO

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