A Passage to India

Revel in well-executed Indian cuisine that stretches beyond the scope of fare featured in our other few Indian eateries

Anokha isn't the prettiest restaurant in town. The small, faintly lit, 36-seat room boasts bare beige burlap walls, a black ceiling, and ... well that's about it, other than shiny-top tables and wooden chairs (plus some outdoor seating). You'd hardly know this was an Indian establishment except for a scattering of statuettes (Krishna, Buddha, elephants) on shelves by the front window, and a slightly elevated section at the back of the space where patrons dine while seated upon silky pillows on a darkly carpeted floor. (Anokha's motto, "Atithi devo bhava," translates to "A guest is equal to God and should be treated as such." If they really mean this, it's time to replace the aged carpeting, and a few new throw pillows are overdue as well.) But you don't go to Anokha for the ambiance. And you certainly shouldn't head there for a quick bite to eat, because the wait before and between courses has always been, and still is, dishearteningly slow. It's a good thing waiters come by every now and then to pour water, because otherwise the assumption would be they'd forgotten about you. If time is on your side, the slow pace of the place can make for a leisurely meal to linger over, but the real rationale for dining at Anokha is to revel in well-executed Indian cuisine that stretches beyond the scope of fare featured in our few other Indian eateries.

The breadth of Indian cooking is breathlessly vast, as one might expect from a land with more than a billion people, 550,000 villages, and fifteen official languages (sixteen if you include baby talk). Throughout its colorful history, the country's composite stock pot has enjoyed contributions first by Arab and Chinese traders and then by a succession of conquering armies composed of Portuguese, Persians, Mongols, Turks, and Brits. Except for the last, those are pretty enviable culinary influences (the Mongols made a mean curry — seriously). And it's not as though England didn't throw anything into the pot; the ever-popular chicken tikka masala originated there. The "chicken tikka platter," most likely originating at Anokha, provides six lush clumps of breast meat divided into three pairs, each duo dressed in a different marinade, all tenderly toasted in the tandoor. This token of tikkas totaled $15, which isn't an unfair price — although it would be deemed a better deal in India, where chicken is held in high esteem and serves as a big-ticket item in restaurants.

Despite the country's diversity of cultures, it has been suggested that there are really only two types of Indians: rice-eaters and wheat-eaters. During times of food shortages, citizens must declare themselves one or the other, the preference then stamped upon their ration cards. Eastern India receives heavy rainfall, so rice is the major crop there, as it is in most of the south, where the grain is often sided by meats and curries. North and west comprise a territorial loaf of wheat country, with chapati and roti breads supplemented with yogurt, dals, curries, and chutneys. Actually there are really three types of Indians if you include those difficult sorts (every subcontinent has its share) who insist on indulging in rice and wheat. Anokha covers all possibilities, beginning with a bounty of baked, grilled, and fried breads. Poori is the puffy one; roti and chapati are flat and tortillalike; pappadom is a papery wafer; nan is tear-shaped and baked on the sides of the tandoor; and kulcha is nan garnished with choice of toppings. My companions favored the piyaaz kulcha accented with potatoes, onions, and mint, but every bread we broke was worthy. The dough costs dough, though, as do an assortment of chutneys and hot pickles. Everything here is à la carte, including rice, but don't let that stop you from ordering either saffron-tinged basmati studded with sweet raisins, or basic, naturally aromatic basmati further fragranced with toasted cumin seeds.

JOE ROCCO

Location Info

Map

Anokha

3195 Commodore Plaza
Coconut Grove, FL 33133

Category: Restaurant > Indian

Region: Coconut Grove

Details

Open daily for dinner Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday 6:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Closed Mondays.
3195 Commodore Plz, Coconut Grove; 786-552-1030

Anokha's extensive menu encompasses regional specialties from all over the Indian map, but more often than not its culinary compass points southward — toward the region of Goa, from which comes the appetizer stuffed papad, a crisp crêpe of pappadom rolled around either a wild mushroom or spicy minced chicken filling. The "Anokha roll" brings a softer, egg-battered roti embracing the same patty of pleasingly piquant poultry.

The mushroom papad is just one of numerous vegetable-based items, and there are quite a few vegan offerings as well (clearly delineated on the menu). Vegetarians are drawn to Indian restaurants for the rare opportunity to indulge in noncarnivorous courses that are as meticulously cooked as those containing meat, and Anokha won't disappoint this discriminated-against demographic. Paneer, a fresh, mild Indian cheese made from pressed yogurt, possesses a similar soft texture and nontaste as tofu, and as such easily assumes the identity of the sauce in which it sits. Saag paneer pairs cubes of the white curd with creamy, ginger-and-cinnamon flecked spinach, while mutter paneer presents the same seasonings and cheese with peas instead.

Harey bharey might sound like a famous baseball announcer, but in fact it's a quartet of cleanly fried potato croquettes, the creamy stuffings brightened by carrots, corn, green beans, and a hint of fresh mint. In a different vegetarian potato croquette called malai kofta palakwala, the puréed spud is punched up with paneer and nuts and pooled in spicy spinach curry.

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