More than Cool

Icebox is one of the Beach’s best restaurants

There are cakes. Carrot. German chocolate. Cinnamon bundt. Coconut buttercream. Cakes, cakes, and more cakes. Plus cupcakes, and cookies the size of hubcaps, and chocolate ganache truffles piled like miniature cannonballs, and six types of brownies — all rich, fudgy, and gooey. Did you say pies? Key lime, pecan, apple streusel.... Dozens of desserts fill two illuminated cases, more rest on cake stands atop those cases, and a separate showcase freezer is exclusively reserved for a host of ice-cream cakes. Here's the kicker: These glossily iced, candy-color temptations are in full sight of Icebox Café's customers as they attempt to concentrate on dining! That's not right. While I should have been perusing the starters and deciding between vegetable spring rolls or baked Brie, my eyes were inexorably drawn instead to the dazzling display of decadent delicacies. Which set me thinking: Would ordering a preappetizer petit four be considered tacky? This is the reason restaurants do not wheel out the dessert cart until after dinner.

Icebox is a bright, modern cake box of a space, the minimalist recipe of lofty white walls, industrial ceiling, and poured cement floor an attractive testament to less being more. Those alluring desserts form a wall of sugar separating the 40 seats in front from a stainless-steel open kitchen in back. Another slab of stainless steel clads a bar that sits to the left of the sweets, and there's seating for twenty more patrons outdoors. A little lounge area by the entrance holds a couch and a couple of ottomans centered by a coffee table.

The clientele is mostly local and in the evenings tends to encompass a fair share of pretty people dressed in the sort of sloppy outfits that cost a fortune. It's a laid-back yet energized scene with new-agey background music all but drowned out by the chitter-chatter of a lively crowd. But Icebox is more than just cool: It's one of the very best neighborhood restaurants in South Beach. The cuisine is freshly prepared and fully flavored. The staff is cordial and competent. There are refreshing, innovative alcoholic beverages, and refreshing, innovative nonalcoholic beverages. Plus those aforementioned desserts — which incidentally have made Oprah swoon. Yes, that Oprah. This past May she anointed Icebox and three other national bakeries as having "The Best Cake in America" and highly recommended the café's confections to her viewers — although presumably not to those following the Oprah Diet.

JOE ROCCO

Location Info

Map

Icebox Cafe

1855 Purdy Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Beach

Details

Open Monday through Thursday 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m., Friday 11:00 a.m. to midnight, Saturday 10:00 a.m. to midnight, Sunday 10:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.
1657 Michigan Ave, Miami Beach; 305-538-8448

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I hope I'm not giving a false impression that only hipsters are hep to this place; there are plenty of dweebs like me seated at the tables too. An eatery needs all sorts to make it in South Beach for eight years, which is how long it has been since owner Robert Siegmann first unwrapped the Box on Michigan Avenue just off Lincoln Road. Restaurant longevity requires captivating cuisine as well, and Icebox is stocked with a daily-changing menu of solid American eats — or "New American," by which I mean dishes such as Greek salad, Argentine-style skirt steak, veal Milanese, and Thai-style ribs. Free wireless Internet service has probably not been integral to Icebox's success — it's just icing on the cake.

Chef Andrea Landini formerly worked at the Grand Bay Hotel under the direction of one of Miami's finest chefs, Pascal Oudin, and she brings a nice breadth of fresh ideas to the table. There are just a handful of starters available on any given evening, which might include baked Brie, coffee-rubbed scallops, or a succulently seared duck breast, slices of plush pink flesh pooled in a subtly sweet pineapple sauce tinged with basil. Light, crisp vegetable spring rolls were tasty too, but the ponzu sauce they sat in possessed all the depth of melted orange juice concentrate. Alternative means for beginning one's meal include soup du jour, a well-balanced quartet of artisan cheeses (for one or two), and caesar or Greek salad, the latter an underdressed, underwhelming affair.

Entrées are equitably divvied into fish, meat, poultry, and pasta dishes — a little something for everyone. Daring diners can delight in peppercorn-crusted venison tenderloin, the mildly gamy meat spruced with rosemary and offset with the sweetness of roasted onion cream. Those seeking something more sumptuous might lean toward lobster ravioli ruffled with white truffle butter. The meat-and-spuds crowd can choose grilled rib eye or skirt steak, each served with chimichurri sauce, roasted potatoes, and vegetables. There is a low-carb "pick of the day," usually something on the order of tilapia in Portuguese yellow pepper sauce, and a vegetarian special each night as well. We sampled the latter, a big white bowl bottomed with soft kernels of wheatberries and sautéed purple kale (a healthy but challengingly chewy green), topped with "Vietnamese-style" vegetables — known to most diners as tempura. The large cuts of eggplant, squash, and sweet potatoes were crisply battered, but Icebox should have noted the nature of this dish in the menu description; customers less enthusiastic than I over fried food will undoubtedly be in for an unpleasant surprise.

A different visit brought the same tempura vegetables, this time properly labeled as such on the menu and served alongside meaty baby-back pork ribs slathered in sweet, zestily spiced Thai barbecue sauce. An almost unbelievably fat and juicy grilled chicken breast luxuriated in a slightly spicy sambal-coconut curry sauce. What should have been accompaniments of "cilantro rice" and "braised vegetables" were disappointingly plain white rice and a sautéed mix of zucchini, squash, and eggplant, but the chicken was so smoothly smoky and succulent that it was beyond reproach. A recommended wine pairing is printed below every main-course offering, which is extremely helpful to diners, though including the price would have been even more efficient. Another friendly touch: Organic wines are available by bottle or glass.

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