Upstairs, Downstairs

A skinny fillet of fresh sea bass arrived grilled to a moist consistency, pooled in tangy citrus butter sauce, and propped against a swirl of mashed purple Peruvian potatoes. The three taste components melded well together, though for the same $28 price, one can walk up the pathway to the posher Cioppino and enjoy that restaurant's eponymous specialty — and also be privy to substantially better service. Cantina Beach won't put you over your credit card limit, but by the time you pay $12 for a chicken flautas appetizer, $18 for a main course of seafood tacos, $9 for dessert, $3.50 for a cup of coffee, tax, and tip, well ... let's just say it will likely be the most expensive cantina you'll ever visit.

Perhaps the best treat of the night was that pricey dessert — two cubes of toasted coconut-crusted coconut ice cream lollipopped on a pair of sugarcane sticks, with a bowl of rum-infused caramel dipping sauce on the side. The other three desserts are the same old boring key lime pie, molten chocolate cake, and tres leches.

JOE ROCCO

Location Info

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Cantina Beach

455 Grand Bay Drive
Key Biscayne, FL 33149

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Key Biscayne

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Details

Open Sunday through Thursday 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne, 455 Grand Bay Dr, Key Biscayne; 305-365-4286

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More About

• Cozumel
• Key Biscayne
• Mexican Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

By all means, go to Cantina Beach for oceanside drinks and Mexican snacks. A great time to do this would be any "Cantina Sunday" between 5:00 and 9:00 p.m.; chips, salsas, and guacamole are served compliments of the house, and a group of musicians supplies a spunky soundtrack for the frolicking poolside fiesta. As far as dinner goes, you are better off asking the Ritz-Carlton concierge what the employee cafeteria is serving.