Cheap Thrills

Communal interaction at Sylvano’s lends the meal a sense of vitality

If you have a thing for mascarpone and are looking to put on a few pounds, then Sylvano's tiramisu is a must. A soup bowl of this dessert comes almost exclusively filled with the sweet, creamy cheese, a sliver of espresso-soaked lady fingers lining the bottom like a pie crust.

The difference between eating at a lively place such as Sylvano's, as opposed to a sparsely populated restaurant, is like the difference between watching a comedy film in a theater filled with laughing people, or alone in an empty room. A communal interaction with others, no matter how unconscious, lends any experience a sense of vitality. It is this high-octane energy, along with low prices, amiable service, and edifying food, that makes dining at Sylvano's a good, cheap thrill.

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