Desserts are made on the premises and include tiramisu; a thin, dense, richly satisfying chocolate hazelnut torte; and a mille-feuille that resembled a Napoleon pastry after numerous toddlers finished playing with it the flaky puff pastry slapped onto the plate with random dabs of whipped cream, Nutella, and raspberries.
For all its missteps, including occasionally sloppy service, Parioli is an easy place to root for. The Valbonesi family seem like genuinely nice folks who are working hard and sincerely trying to create an enjoyable dining experience. The interior, with its curved walls, terrazzo floors, dim lighting, and open kitchen, is simple yet stylish. The vibe is friendly, the menu appealing, and when the room fills up, Parioli exudes an effusive energy. Now it's up to chef Mauro Luise to instill some of that ebullience into the cuisine.