Where the Buffalo Roam

Artisans of a culinary revolution give food lovers something to talk about

It might be wiser to sample your water buffalo meat within the context of pleasing pasta dishes, such as tagliatelle Bolognese with a hearty bufala ragout, or bufala sausage and petite broccoli florets in an appetizing tangle of firmly cooked De Cecco brand orechiette (open kitchens aid greatly in product identification).

Tiramisu; cannolini; a light, lemony cheesecake; and a delicious cherry-cheese tart derive a delicate distinctiveness from their base of bufala ricotta but stood out more for their exceptional freshness. A rich yet airy chocolate almond cake, a specialty of Capri, impressed without any cheese at all. A tasting platter tenders generous portions of four desserts for just $9.

There are kinks to be worked out, but the three brothers who own FLB (thus the name: Fratelli La Bufala) have the know-how to do so — they already operate more than a dozen franchises, most of which are located in Italy. I have reservations concerning the bufala meat, but for cheese and wine, pizza and pasta, or pastries and espresso, FLB is A-Okay. And South Beach diners finally have a home where the buffalo roam and the skies are not cloudy all day.

Chef Antonio Romano serves up the impressive antipasto La Bufalata
Jonathan Postal
Chef Antonio Romano serves up the impressive antipasto La Bufalata

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