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A Worthy Successor

GiGi Bistro

The range of desserts is no wider: bakery-bought apple tart with vanilla ice cream, or housemade chocolate mousse and crme brùlée. The waitstaff's preferred pick of mousse was anything but -- a thick, pasty dark chocolate pudding laced with enough brandy to knock Nick Nolte off the wagon. Crme brùlée, on the other hand, was an impeccably executed, delicately brittle sugar crust capping silky custard.

The brùlée's ethereal quality is impressive, but little else about GiGi's cuisine is remarkable. Conversely, you can't discount the appeal of fresh, well-portioned, economically priced food. Factor in a friendly neighborhood vibe, and GiGi can be considered a worthy successor to the beloved One Ninety. Let's hope Mr. Duff signed a long-term lease.

Appealing plates offered at affordable prices
Jonathan Postal
Appealing plates offered at affordable prices

Details

305-572-0015. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Thursday noon to 11:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. to midnight, Sunday 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.; brunch Saturday and Sunday 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m
190 NE 46th St, Miami

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