Victorious Victuals

A trio of lamb treatments was successful two out of three ways, a more enviable percentage when applied to baseball batters than dinner. A casserole of braised shoulder was sensational, punched up with pungent black mustard seeds and so tender as to be like a chunky snowflake of meat upon the tongue. Slender slices of the spit-roasted lamb's leg were richly flavored but less spectacular, and two thin chops possessed an unpleasant taste. After we finished our meal and the waiter inquired how things were, I tactfully noted the chops didn't taste right (they remained uneaten on the plate). I expected him to return from the kitchen with reassuring words, such as "the chef says the chops are from New Zealand, which have a stronger flavor than the American lamb to which you may be more accustomed." Any vaguely credible excuse would have done. The waitstaff here has just the right no-attitude attitude and is as sharp as a tack in providing proper service, but somebody should have addressed my dissatisfaction, as mildly expressed as it was.

For a refreshing finish try a sampling of four housemade sorbets and creams, each topped with a matching taste treat -- blueberry sorbet with lemon curd was especially appealing. A crme brùlée bottomed with strawberry jam boasted a crisp golden crust and velvety interior, while a separate bowl on the same plate presented sparkling strawberry granité topped with a dollop of anise-scented tarragon cream. Both components were luscious, but I'm not sure what one had to do with the other. A dozen types of exceedingly fresh tea leaves, pods, and flowers are brewed in press pots and prove to be as aromatically satisfying as any in town. Don't forget the aforementioned cheese selection (a rarity). Finally, complimentary cream-filled soft chocolate "lollipops" are handed out.

The cost of dinner here is enough to make a jellyfish go belly-up, but, notwithstanding a gastronomic gaffe or two, Vix's bewitching victuals combined with an allegiance to quality and detail warrant its consideration as one of the finest dining destinations on the Beach.

Chef James Wierzelewski: The South Beach spotlight has found a 
worthy star to shine upon
Jonathan Postal
Chef James Wierzelewski: The South Beach spotlight has found a worthy star to shine upon

Location Info

Map

Vix at Hotel Victor

1144 Ocean Drive
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: South Beach

Details

305-779-8888. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily 7:00 to 11:00 a.m., noon to 3:00 p.m., 7:00 p.m. to midnight.
Hotel Victor, 1144 Ocean Dr, Miami Beach

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