Pleasingly Peru

Jonathan Postal

Endearing atmosphere, classic cuisine, bad phone manners

Location Info

Map

Taberna Giralda

254 Giralda Ave.
Coral Gables, FL 33134

Category: Restaurant > South American

Region: Coral Gables/South Miami

Menu Photos

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Details

Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

254 Giralda Ave, Coral Gables; 305-448-6064.

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More About

• Lima (Peru)
• Seafood
• Foods

The description of suspiro a la limeña as "a puff of whipped egg whites that get poached," sounded like the French dessert, oeufsà la neige, or "floating islands" -- and that's just what it turned out to be. Actually perhaps it was closer to a "bathing island," as a custardy crme anglaise, along with caramelized sugar syrup, draped the free-form meringue -- usually the sauce forms a pale yellow pool upon which the island "floats." When prepped too far in advance, the meringue can turn spongy, but when performed flawlessly, as this rendition was, it is the cotton candy of desserts -- evaporating without a trace upon contact with the tongue, but imprinting a deliciously sweet sensation. Dining at Giralda Café likewise left a lovely lingering impression, though incredibly rude phone manners by owner and staff needlessly added a bitter aftertaste.