Craic Heads

Owners Michael Collins and Daniel McKeown were formerly employed at Smith & Wollensky, and they clearly picked up a thing or two regarding the proper way to grill a steak. Their signature fourteen-ounce ribeye was modestly marbled, savorily seasoned, and deftly grilled: a delicious piece of beef. Other à la carte selections from the grill include rack of lamb, double pork chop, filet mignon, double chicken breast, and fish of the day (usually steak cuts of tuna or swordfish).

Prices are not high at all; most of the appetizers run from $8 to $13, the entrées from $12-$26. You get extra bang for your buck with the latter, a $13 order of fish and chips probably proving more gratifying than an equally priced plate of oysters Rockefeller. The $29.95 daily wine dinner, available from 5:00 to 8:00 p.m., is a better deal yet, and a downright steal if you get the same waiter I did, who assured me, despite repeated and skeptical questioning, that it was an "all-you-can-drink" affair. Don't bet on it, but four glasses (from Artesa, Pommery, Kunde, and Wente vineyards) offer plenty of grapes to go with the three-course meal.

Double-layer chocolate cake and bourbon pecan pie were moist and tasty, though of the extra-sweet, mass-produced variety. If this were really an Irish grill you'd forego desserts and finish with an Irish coffee, one glass of which contains alcohol, caffeine, sugar, and fat -- the four horsemen of the coronary apocalypse. That's probably the only thing Michael Collins would have found appealing about this restaurant, but that doesn't mean you can't stop into the grill named after him, preferably on a weeknight, and enjoy a fine fish and chips and cold glass of beer. You might want to bring your own tartar sauce.

Guinness is twice as good for you
Jonathan Postal
Guinness is twice as good for you

Details

305-672-5850. Open seven days for lunch noon to 5:00 p.m., dinner 5:00 p.m. to 4:00 a.m.; Sunday jazz brunch noon to 3:00 p.m.
1223 Lincoln Rd, Miami Beach

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