The pan-roasted chicken with hot, pepper-crusted cashews, strongly scented with cumin and coriander, was also crisp outside and juicy inside, even the white meat. The bird came with a good but not exciting accompaniment of sweet and green plantains plus Asian long beans. The latter are much like American string beans, just longer and a little meatier. The dish's tangerine-ginger beurre blanc was smooth but so citrusy it was both cloying and bitter. Orange peel actually figured prominently in most items we tried. Even with Bloise's characteristic chili counter, the sameness eventually became boring.

Only a tomato-balsamic-sauced prime grilled ribeye sadly disappointed, but the accompanying wild mushroom/Manchego risotto was sumptuous. The fourteen-ounce steak itself was more than one-third fat. And we're talking inch-wide borders and big interior chunks of fat, not quality prime-meat marbling.

For dessert, it's possible to play it safe with the usual "melting" chocolate cake. But the menu abounds with invitations to finish up with a walk on the wild side: papaya-lime soup, strawberry mousse with basil, or Grand Marnier-spiked carrot cake with ginger cream cheese frosting, accompanied by soy sauce sorbet. This last was tempting, but having overdosed on orange flavorings by then, we opted for "Tony's Delight." The mélange of Asian-flavored marinated fruit salad, watermelon lime sorbet, and avocado mousse was ample for three, and refreshing enough to be an ideal midsummer cooler. It was also a terrific "one dessert, several spoons" compromise for people who can't make up their minds -- though the ice cream-smooth mousse, rendered rich rather than peculiar by the avocado, proved a hit with even the most conservative among us.

Michael Bloise, the next rising star at Wish
Jonathan Postal
Michael Bloise, the next rising star at Wish

Location Info

Map

Wish Restaurant

801 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Out of Town

Details

305-674-9474. Open for lunch daily 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.; dinner Tuesday through Sunday 6:00 to 11:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday until midnight
801 Collins Ave, Miami Beach

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With starter and entrée prices averaging, respectively, about $13 and $30, Wish remains expensive even by South Beach standards. But the service is still gracious. The setting is still stylish. The wine list is still intriguing (with some Australian and New Zealand bottles nicely priced around $25). And the fusion food is still savory after all these years.

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