In the grand protein procession that followed, several meats mentioned on the menu did not march. Chicken hearts, not available at either meal, I frankly didn't miss. Chicken wings and pork loin, I did. Leg of lamb, which appeared the first time but not the second, was good if gamy. Pork ribs, a no-show during my first visit, were falling-off-the-bone tender when they finally arrived tableside -- after much prodding of servers and a 45-minute wait. No wood-smoke flavor, though, was discernible. Salmon, too, was pleasantly soft but didn't taste grilled.

Of the skewered nonbeef items that made regular rounds, chicken breast kebabs were dry, like most white-meat poultry parts grilled skinless. And linguiça was a lesson in national differences. I was expecting the linguiça one finds in Portugal, similar to Spanish chorizo. So I was shocked at the Brazilian sausages' smooth texture. Rather than being lumpy and studded with fat, they resembled highly seasoned mini hot dogs.

Carnivores beware: You may eat till you burst at the 
seams
Jonathan Postal
Carnivores beware: You may eat till you burst at the seams

Details

Open daily. Lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.; dinner 5:30 p.m. to closing (variable); brunch (with feijoada) Saturday and Sunday noon to 4:00 p.m. Call 305-705-0071.
18955 Biscayne Blvd, Aventura

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Steak naturally starred, but rare-meat lovers should be warned that Brazilian gauchos, like their Argentine counterparts, prefer their meat more thoroughly cooked. Garlic beef, an intensely marinated flank cut, came medium. So did filet mignon tournedos, which were tender but quite depleted of moistness despite a bacon wrapping. Fraldinha (skirt steak) was juicier because of its own internal fat marbling, but cooked well-done. My advice is to hold out for the picanha, a Brazilian cut most closely corresponding to U.S. top-sirloin cap, and the only steak that could be cooked to order. When a first round came around well-done, a desperate blurt of "Bleu!" brought a succeeding skewer of custom-sliced sirloin that was full of juice and grilled savor, and at least medium rare. And then another skewer. And another. And another. And it was very good, especially followed by a fudgy, soufflé-like, dark-chocolate cake for dessert -- and a few more caipirinhas.

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