Steak House Chic

Come here to see, be seen, and eat heartily

A friend ordered the "chef's composition" entrée of grilled salmon, which was equally flavorful not just because it was topped with a bracingly assertive lemon nage (only slightly thickened) but because the featured king salmon was wild, not a bland, farmed fish.

While the above fish "composition" was accompanied by whipped caper potatoes and asparagus, the beef dishes stand alone, as is the norm at steak houses. All side dishes, known here as "accessories," are separate -- and expensive. But the good news is that each eight- or nine-dollar order easily serves two to four people.

On the list were more than enough nearly irresistible and unusual creations for a strict vegetarian to cobble together a formidable feast: sautéed broccoli rabe with chilies, garlic, and lemon; sweet potato and vanilla bean mash; fried green tomatoes; rum-baked sweet plantains; four-cheese truffled macaroni.

Prime One Twelve at Brown's Hotel: A 
turn-of-the-century hot spot is hot once again
Jonathan Postal
Prime One Twelve at Brown's Hotel: A turn-of-the-century hot spot is hot once again

Location Info

Map

Prime One Twelve

112 Ocean Drive
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Beach

Details

Open daily 6:30 p.m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday until 1:00 a.m. Call 305-532-8112.
112 Ocean Dr, Miami Beach

But you won't go wrong here sticking with steak-house side-dish standards. House-made tater tots, actually more grown-up-size tater teens, were a skillfully seasoned mix of mashed and shredded potatoes that should make Mrs. Paul hang her head in shame. Onion rings were genuine cornmeal-crusted rings of onion, not that nasty onion-flavored batter that too often passes for the real thing. And the creamed spinach -- barely cooked so it was still crunchy and vibrantly green, topped with crispy shallots -- was the best I've ever had. Anywhere. Including, yes, even the Forge's top-secret recipe.

If you've left room for dessert -- always a good idea at a Chefetz eatery, since his pastry chef is Hedy Goldsmith -- selections are all-American comfort sweets, upgraded. Imagine, for instance, chocolate pudding in the form of a warm, runny-centered fudge cake with sweet cream and liqueured amarene cherries (tart, wild Italian). No room? No problem. The just-baked chocolate chunk cookies, warmed up at home in a toaster oven, are an even better bedtime treat than anything you might bring home from Prime One Twelve's bar.

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