Emeril's Coasts

The spirit of America's favorite chef is absent from his Miami Beach namesake

Do not forgo dessert -- except, that is, for a dry chocolate soufflé that no amount of syrupy chocolate-Grand Marnier sauce poured into the center could remedy. Banana cream pie was a puffy delight, heavy on fresh, sturdy, chilled chunks of banana, light on vanilla custard, bottomed by a banana and graham cracker crust, and topped with whipped cream and dark chocolate shavings. An individual round of southern pecan pie was rightly sweet and gooey, as was accompanying praline ice cream, both constrained by a soft "deep dish" crust smartly short on sugar. The fresh fruit plate, centered by a scoop of sorbet and encompassing four types of ripe berries, was one of the prettiest I've seen.

Location Info

Map

Emeril's Miami Beach

1601 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Cajun

Region: South Beach

Details

Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11:00 p.m. Call 305-695-4550.
Loews Hotel, 1601 Collins Ave, Miami Beach

Emeril's is, by and by, a decent restaurant, but just doesn't feel like an Emeril's -- and it's not his body this place lacks, but his spirit. The next time Lagasse and his reindeer do make it down for a visit, I'd suggest he tell both the interior designers and his kitchen crew to kick it up a notch.

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