Some Serious Sushi

The name is Thai, the sushi is for to die

Comments (0) By Pamela Robin Brandt Thursday, Dec 25 2003

...continued from page 1

Jonathan Postal

Chef Kevin Cory menaces a cephalopod in the Siam River kitchen

Location Info

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Siam River

3455 NE 163rd St.
Sunny Isles Beach, FL 33160

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Aventura/North Miami Beach

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Details

Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m., Sunday 5:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m. Call 305-945-8079.

3455 NE 163rd St, North Miami Beach

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Fresh gingko nut tempura was fried, but not tempura-battered, beans that tasted like a cross between favas and southern boiled peanuts; a nice alternative to edamame.

If you sit at a table instead of the sushi bar, remember to ask for the daily special sushi menu. It's not automatically brought with the regular separate Japanese and Thai menus, and you do want the sushi specials. But it'd be a mistake to ignore Siam River's Thai dishes. Tom yum goong soup was a refreshingly balanced hot and sour take. A "Best Choice" pick called spring break duck was completely nonfatty pieces of duck fried crispy but, unlike average Thai duck dishes, not breaded, in a delectable, subtly sweet unthickened sauce. Oddly, though, the dish's vegetables -- carrots, onions, scallions, tomatoes, and peas -- were all raw except the peas, which were overcooked. With a more substantial sauce, like peanut, the raw veggies would've worked. As it was, they were unappealing. But it was one of the restaurant's very few missteps.