The Grass Menagerie

Grass is patchy in spots, but can grow on you

Ginger chocolate truffle on a "cloud" of lemon grass sticky rice is a creative departure from the pitter-patter of this town's repetitious desserts. The truffle, which resembled a small triangle of brownie, and the aptly named sticky rice each provided a sweet shout of flavor, but in tandem they made more noise than sense. The rice contained shards of either hardened lemon grass or cinnamon, which led me to bemoan my never inviting a dentist or lawyer to these affairs.

Other desserts featured more fetching tropicalizations of standards, like creamy-smooth coconut crème brûlée paired with Grand Marnier-soaked lychees, and caramelized banana fostered with a crispy tuile and scoop of chocolate hazelnut gelato. Gelati and sorbets include flavors like dark chocolate, ginger, and "forest berries."

Chef Pedro Duarte sharpens up his pan-Asian Peruvian cuisine
Jonathan Postal
Chef Pedro Duarte sharpens up his pan-Asian Peruvian cuisine

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Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, 7:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Bar stays open until 3:00 a.m. Call 305-573-3355.
28 NE 40th St., Miami, FL

Well, it's said that sometimes you can't see the forest berries for the trees. As a restaurant Grass is patchy in spots, but it does sort of grow on you.

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