Revisiting Here in Allentown

Chef Allen's proves the original is still better than the remakes

Since opening in Loehmann's Plaza eighteen years ago, Chef Allen's Restaurant has raked in prestigious dining awards the way most of us accumulate bills: rated "best restaurant in South Florida" by Gourmetmagazine, voted "best food in Miami" in the 2003 Zagat, winner of Wine Spectator's Award of Excellence, recipient of four stars from Mobile Travel Guide, four diamonds from AAA, and four of whatever-else-goes-one-to-four. Chef/owner Allen Susser has, on a personal level, achieved national recognition as one of the founders of New World cuisine, and further flamed that fame with a trio of well-received cookbooks: New World Cuisine and Cookery, The Great Citrus Book, and The Great Mango Book. It is safe to say that no chef is more closely associated with the mango, not even other members of the so-called "mango gang," than is Mr. Susser. Surprisingly, there are not that many mangoes on his menu.

Allen contends that there are three essential components to every recipe: techniques, ingredients, and the cook. The food at his restaurant succeeds precisely because of its detailed attention to this triad. Techniques are based soundly in the classical mode, with emphasis on summoning freshness and clarity of flavors. Ingredients are cross-culturally connected to landscapes linked by their tropicality -- Latin America, Pacific Rim, Caribbean, and Mediterranean (Allen now calls his food "Palm Tree Cuisine"). And the cook, or in this case "cooks," are an obviously skillful lot led by executive chef Craig Berkower. You can observe them at work through a 25-foot-wide smoked glass window in the main dining room. Chef Allen can also be glimpsed orchestrating matters in the kitchen, but you'll likely get a closer look during one of his forays to the front of the house.

I hadn't been to Chef Allen's in quite some time, and was a little taken aback to see it looking as it did on my last visit. On that occasion I had brought a friend from out of town, one who was keyed into the national restaurant scene enough to have heard about the place before coming down. I remember the incredulous look on his face as he surveyed the room, turned to me, and said, "This is Chef Allen's?"

Allen Susser: Still original after all these years
Jonathan Postal
Allen Susser: Still original after all these years

Location Info

Map

Chef Allen's

19088 NE 29th Ave.
Aventura, FL 33180

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Dade

Details

Open for dinner daily, Sunday through Thursday 6:00 to 10:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6:00 to 11:00 p.m. Call 305-935-2900.
19088 NE 29th Ave (off Biscayne Boulevard), Aventura

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My friend had apparently been expecting the sleek, contemporary design so prevalent in widely recognized urban dining establishments. Instead Chef Allen's exuded, and still does, a decidedly Old World ambiance, which was, and still is, perplexing for a place that specializes in New World cuisine. Something else hasn't changed much: During that initial visit, the flowers on our table were gasping their final breaths. This time around the flowers could be described as "livelier" only in the way the Pope is livelier than Bob Hope.

While I find the room a bit dowdy, others think it just dandy -- particularly the older, more distinguished patrons who make up part of the clientele here. Regardless of taste in such matters, the space is comfortable to a noteworthy degree, with cushy chairs and large tables spaced generously apart. Two computer screens sitting on a shelf facing the main dining room, upon which the Chef Allen logo relentlessly blinks, represent an unwelcome distraction.

We were started out with a ceramic canister of extra-long bread sticks and a dish of Chef Allen's famous mango ketchup. It's a great tasting product, but I find it too barbecue-sauceish a startup for so sophisticated a restaurant. Butter is provided for those who agree, and fresh slices of olive, sourdough, and fruit and nut breads are served as well.

Chef Allen's classic dishes have been appropriated by so many restaurants that his originally original ideas don't seem as fresh anymore. Until, that is, you bite into them, at which point you realize that Susser makes them much better than anybody else. Turks and Caicos's baby conch ceviche is stunning and pristine, brightly surrounded by snappily acidic yellow gazpacho and a mini scoop of invigorating cucumber sorbet tucked into a cumin-flecked wafer. It's the perfect appetizer for a sultry evening, which is, after all, the very idea behind indigenous dining -- we eat mangoes, Eskimos eat whale blubber, and everyone's body temperature remains in sync. Or something like that.

Too often restaurants try to make foie gras portions look larger by serving two skinny discs, but Chef Allen's plunks down one thick, compact, crisply seared piece, thus retaining the meltingly moist properties of the meat. A marmalade of mango and candied onions, an impeccably browned round of pancetta, and a freshly toasted brioche point supported the foie gras with a pleasing confluence of flavors. Less successful was a salad of wild greens tossed with red and yellow tomato wedges and assorted nuts and berries (straw, rasp, and blue) in a bland roasted lemon vinaigrette that lacked the assertiveness necessary for pulling such uncommon bedfellows together.

Chef Allen's wine list is so broad and exceptional as to be virtually unvilifiable by vinophiles of even the most critical nature. "Wine flights" are available for $45 per person, though the waitstaff is well enough versed in the grapes they're selling that they can be quite helpful if you choose to fly on your own. Service was, overall, polished and professional, though at one point our waiter got caught up taking a large table's orders, leaving us stranded with no manager on the floor to come to our rescue. When the waiter finally made it over, he politely apologized for the delay.

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