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Pao Packs Punch

Pao's Chinese is fine feasting

Co-owner Josh Moulton is one ingredient in a tasty mix that makes up Pao
Steve Satterwhite
Co-owner Josh Moulton is one ingredient in a tasty mix that makes up Pao

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Pao Restaurant

825 Washington Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: South Beach

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Open daily 6:00 p.m. to midnight (lunch planned soon). Call 305-695-1957.
825 Washington Ave, Miami Beach, FL

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Another "large plate," sweet and sour shrimp, was simply the best version I've ever had. Forget the usual coarse, cloying Chinese-American stuff with its gluelike sugary sauce and canned pineapple; genuine Chinese sweet/sour dishes feature a complex balance of sweetness, salt, and tang -- as does Pao's preparation of battered shrimp and fresh veggies. And hot and sour snapper fillet features an even more complex, and definitely more original, sauce, adding citrus, tomato, and hot peppers to the sugar/vinegar blend. Additionally the fish's fried coating was so crisp and light that Pao's crispy lemon chicken would have been impossible to resist, had I two stomachs. Next time. And despite Pao's distressing discontinuation, only two months after opening, of its super-cute chocolate mousse-filled giant fortune cookie, there will be a next time.

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