Tasty Business

The new Ritz-Carlton scores big with Willis Loughhead's classy cuisine

Among entrées, linguine with Maine lobster Bolognese was a variation on the beef-sauced standard that had a piscatorian friend practically on her knees in gratitude. Meat was missing but not missed in the fresh tomato/basil sauce enriched by cream, refreshened by balsamico, and packed with lobster.

Barbecued cochinillo was like lechon asado that went to finishing school. Cut in a perfect square, the piece of pork was topped with an offset square of its own crackling and flanked with two huge citrus-seared langostinos. Though the suckling pig's bed of sauce stretched the saltiness border, its pronounced port wine flavor was an effective balance.

It may seem silly, with all the above creative plates available, to go for anything on the "simply grilled" list. But a selection of terrific sauces (half a dozen, including chive-spiked multimushroom cream sauce, green peppercorn/Dijon mustard, and hearty Barolo wine with foie gras), served tableside to one's own taste, transformed a hefty thirteen-ounce dry-aged prime rib-eye of superb quality from a businessperson's perfect power lunch/dinner dish to ... well, simply perfect. Although Suits dominated the dining room when I've been to Bizcaya, it's hoped Trendies tired of chewing to top 40 rhythms will follow.

Bizcaya Grill: Part Old World, part New American, entirely classy
Bill Cooke
Bizcaya Grill: Part Old World, part New American, entirely classy

Location Info

Map

Bizcaya

3300 SW 27th Ave.
Coconut Grove, FL 33133

Category: Restaurant > Contemporary

Region: Coconut Grove

Details

305-644-4680. Open daily for breakfast 7:00 to 11:00 a.m., lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., dinner 6:30 to 11:30 p.m. (Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.)
The Ritz-Carlton, 3300 SW 27th Ave, Coconut Grove

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