Tasty Business

The new Ritz-Carlton scores big with Willis Loughhead's classy cuisine

Comments (0) By Pamela Robin Brandt Thursday, Feb 20 2003

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Among entrées, linguine with Maine lobster Bolognese was a variation on the beef-sauced standard that had a piscatorian friend practically on her knees in gratitude. Meat was missing but not missed in the fresh tomato/basil sauce enriched by cream, refreshened by balsamico, and packed with lobster.

Barbecued cochinillo was like lechon asado that went to finishing school. Cut in a perfect square, the piece of pork was topped with an offset square of its own crackling and flanked with two huge citrus-seared langostinos. Though the suckling pig's bed of sauce stretched the saltiness border, its pronounced port wine flavor was an effective balance.

Bill Cooke

Bizcaya Grill: Part Old World, part New American, entirely classy

Location Info

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Bizcaya

3300 SW 27th Ave.
Coconut Grove, FL 33133

Category: Restaurant > Contemporary

Region: Coconut Grove

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Details

305-644-4680. Open daily for breakfast 7:00 to 11:00 a.m., lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., dinner 6:30 to 11:30 p.m. (Sunday brunch 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.)

The Ritz-Carlton, 3300 SW 27th Ave, Coconut Grove

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It may seem silly, with all the above creative plates available, to go for anything on the "simply grilled" list. But a selection of terrific sauces (half a dozen, including chive-spiked multimushroom cream sauce, green peppercorn/Dijon mustard, and hearty Barolo wine with foie gras), served tableside to one's own taste, transformed a hefty thirteen-ounce dry-aged prime rib-eye of superb quality from a businessperson's perfect power lunch/dinner dish to ... well, simply perfect. Although Suits dominated the dining room when I've been to Bizcaya, it's hoped Trendies tired of chewing to top 40 rhythms will follow.