Cash Us Out

At $20 for bottled water, $26 for an appetizer, South Beach thinks nothing of the economy, stupid

Comments (0) By Pamela Robin Brandt Thursday, Sep 19 2002

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Two other appetizers were less substantial, and therefore far too expensive. Sesame seaweed sprout salad was tastier than that found in Japanese eateries, but its accompanying apricot sauce was so spicy that any fruit taste was obliterated. At $13 for a medium-sized heap of wakame, alfalfa sprouts, cucumber, daikon radish, and sunflower seeds, not cheap. The filling of a Cantonese shrimp spring roll was more interesting than in an average Chinese restaurant -- shiitakes plus ample garlic and ginger along with Chinese cabbage -- but $15 was excessive for a roll containing just two normal-sized shrimp.

An entrée of red snapper piccata was a sizable fish, topped with caper berries (the olivelike fruit, rather than the bud, of the caper bush) and sauced with a bold blend of white wine, garlic, lemon, reduced essence of scallion, and basil. Accompanying were fragrant though not terribly sticky sticky rice and Chinese cabbage.

Steve Satterwhite

Behind these glamorous closed doors, you can have a very expensive meal accompanied by very loud music

Location Info

Map

Barcode Restaurant & Lounge

1437 Washington Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139-4109

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: South Beach

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Details

305-534-1711. Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, 8:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m. (lounge to 5:00 a.m.)

1437 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

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Of six entrées, two are steaks, so I tried the cheaper New York strip au poivre. The boneless beef cut was cooked perfectly bleu as ordered, the pommes frites were fresh and terrific, and the peppered brandy cream sauce couldn't have been more scrumptious. But $42 for a strip steak?

For dessert, a Tiramisu Napoleon was more of a chocolate-dipped frozen gelato mousse than tiramisu. Its $12 tab was fine, though, since a table of six could've shared the dish; its extreme sweetness made more than a bite or two impossible.

Oh, and a bottle of sparkling water -- not designer stuff, just San Pellegrino -- was $20.