Noodles Of Engagement

Macaluso's: Simple and small and just what the diner ordered

Exemplary rigatoni with escarole, white cannellini beans, and shaved slices of Locatelli Romano cheese was marred by, of all things, the homemade sausages. D'Andrea prepares over 100 pounds a week from the cut of pork called Boston butt, but on this occasion the links burst forth with flavor from fennel seed, coarse black pepper, and, unfortunately, too much salt.

The only nonshellfish seafood selection on the nights we dined was grilled tuna. There were no beef, duck, or lamb items available, but numerous chicken and veal offerings picked up the slack. "Grilled veal" is something you don't often see: two juicy, top-round cutlets over a bed of garlic-sautéed rappini -- a light, refreshing alternative to heavily sauced bludgeons of veal chop.

Like the cuisine, desserts are standards prepared in fresh, homemade fashion. A smoothly satisfying tiramisu gets a new twist via the addition of fresh blueberries, whereas ricotta cheesecake follows with tradition -- lighter, lemony, more textured than regular cheesecake and, as is custom, scrumptious. Both come with scoops of ice cream on the side.

Wanna find out the menu? Then pay attention
Steve Satterwhite
Wanna find out the menu? Then pay attention

Location Info

Map

Macaluso's Italian Cuisine

1747 Alton Road
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: South Beach

Details

305-604-1811. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday 6:00 p.m. to midnight, Sunday 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
1747 Alton Rd, Miami Beach

Macaluso's exudes the buzz, hum, and clatter of a restaurant that's clicking on all cylinders. By the time I dined here again I didn't even mind the verbal menu presentation -- when fresh ingredients are prepared by people who care, which specific dishes you pick becomes almost irrelevant. Michael D'Andrea can proudly croon, as Frank does over the restaurant speakers, "I did it my way!"

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