Lord knows I love a chef who can use a word like "conundrum" in a conversation, especially when he hasn't learned it just because it's the appellation of a multivarietal wine. Van Aken's intent to serve up something different than the standard tuna roll is probably enough to at least get me to the bar. His plan to offer more than 40 wines by the glass is definitely enough to keep me there -- at least until closing.
But let's not go into this venture as consumers with fermented-grape goggles on. There's no such thing as a sure thing. I can't yet comment on the "café foods of the world" menu, which Van Aken reports is "evolving daily. It will be unlike Norman's in that it will be much, much more casual. But it will not be 'kiddie food' like I see in most places that offer casual food." I'm also curious to find out who the chef de cuisine, who hasn't been hired yet, will be, and if he or she has the power to draw me from my perch at Norman's bar, where I occasionally enjoy a kir royale and a "nosh" or two.
4251 Salzedo St.
Coral Gables, FL 33146
Category: Restaurant > Fusion
Region: Coral Gables/South Miami
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Truth is, this September MUNDO will join a host of potentially important eateries: Andrea Curto-Randazzo and Frank Randazzo's Talulah; Tim Andriola's Sunny Isles location; freshly constructed Ritz-Carlton dining rooms in Coconut Grove and South Beach; and a Neiman Marcus café, also to debut in the Village at Merrick Park. In other words, even without the world, we're being promised a lot for this upcoming season. I, for one, will be making my reservations accordingly.
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