By David Minsky
By Jen Mangham
By Bill Wisser
By Laine Doss
By Bill Wisser
By Dana De Greff
By Laine Doss
By Zachary Fagenson
This doesn't mean Christy's is glamorous. Rather it is "clubby," a place where powerful men feel at home, and women feel as though they're in a club for powerful men. It's a comfortable, intimate place to dine, the 175 or so seats divided into four cozy dining rooms. The walls are a warm, orange-red color with light brown trim (tasteful art prints in neat black frames hang upon them, not photos of famous people); carpeted floors and plush, upholstered chairs contribute to the classic steak-house look. The lighting is soft, music played so low that I'm not even certain there is music (a plus, as one of the least attractive aspects of eating out often is being subjected to various restaurant owners' ill-advised notions of what constitutes a pleasant dining soundtrack).
The era when a porterhouse, baked potato, and caesar salad was as haute as American food could get is long past, yet the basic steak-house approach taken at Christy's still attracts as many enthusiasts as ever -- on weekends the place is positively overflowing with eager carnivores. The clientele is dressed conservatively, not formally -- a snapshot assessment might lead one to guess most tables are filled with mature locals and businessmen with their families on vacation. During lunch, the families and vacationers are gone.
3101 Ponce de Leon Blvd.
Coral Gables, FL 33134
Region: Coral Gables/South Miami
Waiters are dressed formally, and service is nothing short of spectacular -- Miami's restaurateurs would do well to send their waitstaffs here for dinner so they can see how things are supposed to be done.
Christy's crew perform their tasks with a stealth efficiency no less breathtaking than a seamless magic trick -- how'd they manage to refill the bread basket without anyone at the table noticing? While most waiters are wont to wander into conversation to inquire if you'd like more water, or if the soup is agreeable, or whatever, the waiters here impart only vital information pertaining to the meal, and do so in a personable manner, without ever interrupting. We learned later that they're pretty adept at flambéing baked Alaskas, too.
Oysters Rockefeller first appeared in 1899 at Antoine's Restaurant in New Orleans, the chef there coming up with the recipe as a substitute for escargot, whose import from Europe at that time had slowed to a snail's pace. The original preparation calls for the oyster to be baked and browned in its shell with a topping made from watercress pestled in a mortar with scallions, celery, chervil, tarragon, breadcrumbs, butter, Tabasco, and absinthe. Nowadays spinach and Pernod are routinely substituted, and sometimes, as here at Christy's, Parmesan is placed in the mix. This is a rich recipe even without the cheese (thus the name "Rockefeller"), and, with a cheesy caesar salad to follow, is for my money too lavish a prelude to the robust meal ahead.
No problem importing escargot these days, the standard garlic-butter version offered here as another starter. Crabcakes, a shrimp cocktail made from two truly jumbo shrimp, and a fresh sea bass ceviche with minced peppers, lime juice, and cilantro round out the appetizers. Black bean soup, a purée with pleasantly meaty undertones, is served with a snifter of sherry on the side.
Every entrée is preceded by a generous plate of Christy's caesar salad, one of the most celebrated in town -- yet I have come not to praise caesar, but to bury it. I am as appreciative as anyone regarding the crisp romaine leaves, softly crunchy croutons, and glistening, bright brown anchovies, but the dressing was so permeated with sharp Parmesan that no garlic or lemon flavors could be discerned; I found the salad a little too salty and way too potent.
Main courses also include vegetables and a hefty baked potato with sour cream and sliced scallion options. Dinner prices range from $19.50 to $35.95, which isn't bad for a complete, filling, quality meal. Of course the cost will rise commensurately with the wine you choose, the moderately sized selection encompassing well-known labels from America and France, with an emphasis on hearty, beef-friendly reds. Non-reserve bottles range from $20 to $40.
Although Christy's motto is Famous for Prime Steaks and Fresh Seafood, most diners seem to order the steaks. Can't blame them for doing so, as the beef is prime, Midwestern, corn-fed, and dry-aged. The menu correctly informs that aging takes four to six weeks and results in a significant loss of weight through shrinkage. It is therefore more costly, but produces rich, flavorful beef that is naturally tender. Amen. Offerings include a 14-ounce New York strip, 18-ounce rib-eye, 24-ounce porterhouse, 8- or-12-ounce filet mignon, and a trio of thick double lamb chops, broiled to succulence and sided by kelly-green mint jelly that is so old-fashioned and so delicious in tandem with the lamb.