And Now, 'Nam Sushi

Forget Thai, now you can have a Vietnamese sandwich with your maki roll

Of two salads we tried, Asian tuna was superior, the pepper crust of the rare, seared tuna providing spicy contrast to the green salad's oddly appealing white dressing, a slightly sweet, soothing sauce similar to old-fashioned Fanny Farmer-era boiled dressing. Gado gado, a mixed-vegetable salad with tofu and hard-boiled egg, was generous enough for four to share, but the peanut dressing was bland, needing more salt and more tang. Our leftover ponzu perked things up considerably, but I'd recommend asking also for a small side of the hot chili potion that accompanies Peppercorn's phô soup.

Forget the grill, stick with the sushi
Bill Cooke
Forget the grill, stick with the sushi

Details

305-604-0300. Open Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m., till midnight Friday and Saturday; Sunday noon to 11:00 p.m. (Lunch specials till 3:00 p.m. Monday through Friday only.)
1131 Washington Ave, Miami Beach

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Among entrées, the lemongrass shrimp was disappointing; the five grilled, shell-on shrimp were large but overcooked to dryness, and tasted only slightly of either grill or lemongrass. Banh xeo, one of Vietnam's most popular street-food specialties, was better. The crêpe, however, was not crisp as it should be; the pancake was more like a soft, thick omelet. And though the steamed shrimp/ground pork/bean sprout filling was fresh and crunchy, it as well as the dish's dipping sauce could have used much more oomph -- more fish-sauce saltiness, turmeric, garlic, and especially chilies. Don't be afraid, Peppercorn, to give Miami more spice.

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