The Dope on Poppy

When you pop into Poppy, it sure looks nice

The few nods to Moroccan cuisine come by way of two kebabs (shrimp and filet mignon) and "merguez," a thin, spicy lamb sausage traditionally served with ariza, a hot chili sauce. The five links served here were a bit overcharred, and though the menu promises ariza and fries on the side, the ariza never arrived. I would have asked for some, but while buspersons were on the ball when it came to clearing plates, waiters were hard to come by -- both on a busy weekend evening and a less-hectic weekday night. This is not a well-trained waitstaff but rather the standard SoBe sort -- pleasant enough but not particularly interested in honing the finer points of their trade. It's as if perhaps they're concentrating on more important things, like what outfit they're going to wear to the club when they finally get off work.

Other entrées include a fleshy, adeptly grilled one-pound whole red snapper, dully, er, duly accompanied by basmati rice and a listless julienne of carrots and peppers. Same vegetables sided a grilled tuna steak with sweet balsamic-red wine reduction and scoop of garlic-imbued mashed potatoes. A sweet balsamic sauce (they must store this stuff by the keg) and another scoop of passable mashed potatoes also anchored a juicy, medium-rare chimichurri-grilled churrasco steak, but this time the potatoes had a half-dozen unseasoned asparagus spears sticking out of the side and a thatch of arugula leaves that had seen better days rising from the center. Mashed potatoes, rice, and fries are the only starches on the menu; asparagus, carrots, tomatoes, and spinach the sole vegetables. The selection of wines is similarly limited.

Poppy's priorities are mostly on the funky fashion that accompanies the food
Steve Satterwhite
Poppy's priorities are mostly on the funky fashion that accompanies the food

Location Info

Map

Pacific Time Restaurant

35 NE 40th St.
Miami, FL 33137

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Midtown/Wynwood/Design District

Details

786-276-1966. Open for dinner Sunday through Thursday 6:00 to 11:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 6:00 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.
927 Lincoln Rd, Miami Beach

So are desserts: a wedge of key lime pie garnished with canned whipped cream; chocolate or passion fruit crème brûlée; apple tart; tiramisu; and "chocolate cake with blueberries" that was really a rich, creamily dense chocolate mousse pie with dark chocolate crumb crust topped with blueberries and blueberry sauce. Not bad. Not great. Which is what should be said for the overall food and service at Poppy.

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