Gimme That Gimmick

Check out that All Time Thai Favorite, the Miami Springs Volcano

The more well-done beef in a classic green curry was considerably chewier, but the dish as a whole was topnotch. Of Thailand's most well-known curries (red, green, yellow, massaman, and Panang), green usually is the hottest and the most typically Thai-tasting -- or at least less Indian or near-Eastern influenced -- owing to its predominance of fresh herbs over dried spices. And Bangkok Sushi's green sauce, made with ingredients the menu says are flown in from Bangkok, was properly thin though complexly flavored, and nicely spicy if not truly hot. Massaman curry (potato, avocado, and chicken, plus cashews) came in a sauce that was thicker and milder, as is characteristic of this Muslim-influenced curry, but also was cloyingly rather than "lightly" sweet. (Although we defaulted to the chef's heat preference for both the above curries, diners can pick their own, on a one- to five-star scale, from mild to "Call the Fire Dept!" for all dishes.)

Oddly, though the massaman curry's chicken was tenderly moist, that in pad thai, though plentiful, was hard and cardboard-dry. The dish's small shrimp also were drastically overcooked. The noodles themselves, though, were less mushily overdone than they often are in this dish, and lots of bean sprouts provided the fresh sparkle the poultry and shellfish lacked. "Crispy Duck Darling" was another overdone poultry casualty -- unfortunate since the sauce surrounding the dry duck and its accompanying crunchy sautéed vegetables had an extremely appealing, illusive tang balancing its (surprise!) unadvertised sweetness; I suspect tamarind.

Get ready for classic Thai (or is it Japanese?) dishes like "Miami Springs Volcano," with a dash of humor
Steve Satterwhite
Get ready for classic Thai (or is it Japanese?) dishes like "Miami Springs Volcano," with a dash of humor
Get ready for classic Thai (or is it Japanese?) dishes like "Miami Springs Volcano," with a dash of humor
Steve Satterwhite
Get ready for classic Thai (or is it Japanese?) dishes like "Miami Springs Volcano," with a dash of humor

Location Info

Map

Bangkok Sushi

7 Westward Drive
Doral, FL 33166

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Doral

Details

305-863-8822. Open Monday to Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and 5:00 to 10:00 p.m.; Saturday 5:00 to 10:00 p.m.; closed Sunday.
7 Westward Dr, Miami Springs

We ordered "You and I" because the menu called it "outstanding" (I'm a sucker for self-touting) but mainly because we were curious about this dish's difference from Chinese sweet-and-sour stuff. There was none, except that the meat was unbattered; the dish's sauce was the usual neon-orange suburban Chinese/American syrup. There also was nothing particularly Thai about Bangkok Sushi's spring rolls, but the cabbage/carrot/rice vermicelli filling was particularly tasty. Hint: The rolls are better dipped in lemon-spiked soy sauce than in their accompanying jelly, an inauthentic Chinese-type duck sauce. And they are better yet washed down with Singha, an authentic, and fabulous, Thai beer.

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