Jeremy Eaton
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As for the Norman's dinner itself, it's pretty hard to argue with hors d'oeuvres like deviled quails' eggs stuffed with foie gras (Van Aken); risotto with eggplant, anchovy, and mint (Romano); and roasted squab that was so crunchy and caramelized it was like a savory candy (Boulud). But the best part, of course, was watching the chefs put the courses together. Gathered around the exhibition table, every big name worked right alongside volunteer prep and sous chefs to plate the main ingredient, garnish, and wipe the rims -- tasks they usually reserve these days for Todayshow and TV Food Network cameras. As far as Chefs Across America goes, I have to admit: They play nice.