Tragical Mystery Zür

Zür New World Cuisine

I wondered whether the one inventive-sounding dessert, "white chocolate cappuccino with espresso," might be a mistakenly listed beverage. Our waitress assured me it definitely was a dessert, describing it as whipped foam with a bit of espresso at the bottom; I now envisioned it as some sort of white chocolate mousse into which one folds the coffee. In fact what was placed on the table was a glass of steamy cappuccino flavored with drizzles of chocolate syrup and topped with a white chocolate froth only slightly firmer than that atop my chowder. Obviously not a dessert, even if, as I did, you start out by eating it with a spoon and sort of pretend that it is. I don't deny it was a tasty cappuccino, but $6 is, I'd say, a bit pricey for the drink. I'm fairly certain they didn't get this idea from a food magazine.

Manager Blanca Corrie and the coolly casual Zür, where every flavor is fused
Steve Satterwhite
Manager Blanca Corrie and the coolly casual Zür, where every flavor is fused


305-604-8181. Open daily for breakfast 7:00 to 11:30 a.m. Dinner Monday through Thursday 7:00 to 11:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday 7:00 p.m. to midnight.
3500 Collins Ave, Miami Beach

Maybe Zür can succeed as a belly-dancing, Aladdin-lamped Middle Eastern spot. Or a hoity-haute hotel restaurant with an uncompromising desire to use only the finest ingredients. Perhaps it could offer a real Mediterranean menu with a Doug Rodriguez-esque cutting-edge Latin sabor that could rekindle the fuse in the sputtering fusion scene. The owner might even be outrageous in his reach and offer Miami Beach what it actually wants -- indeed what every city in the world needs at least a few of: a friendly casual restaurant featuring flavorful, affordable fare. What we keep getting instead are places like Zür -- friendly casual restaurants featuring flavorful food hyped into some forced "New World" or "fusion" context, at prices that are affordable only to the type of people who would rather spend a little more and get the real deal. I mean can you imagine one partner saying to the other, "Let's eat at Norman's tonight," and having their companion respond, "Why not save a few bucks and have New World cuisine at Zür"? Neither can I, but I'd support Zür's attempt in that direction, or any direction, if they'd make an honest commitment to it. As it stands now, Zür's allure is adeptly prepared food, but as a restaurant it makes no more sense than its name.

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