Features from the Back Lagoon

Lagoon

Sides got mixed reviews. In the starch department, a stuffed potato was dry, excessively salted, and tasted not at all of the cheese its vivid orange color suggested, while cottage fries were just weird: four thick oval slices of potato that were real, not reconstituted, but tasted like they'd been prefried -- possibly in Capone's time -- and reheated to leathery toughness. Salads were better but still not entirely successful. A tableside-made caesar salad was crisp and nicely coated, but the dressing suffered from a severe mustard overdose. Additionally, though our server had agreed to substitute a caesar for two of our free house salads, we were charged full freight -- and $15.90 is a lotta lettuce. The two house salads we did get also had a lettuce problem: iceberg. With even common romaine (not to mention the easily available mesclun mixes available at any supermarket here) substituted for zero-personality iceberg, Lagoon's house salad would have been a knockout, owing to delicious dressing (creamy garlic) and generous Greek-style garnishes (feta cheese, imported black olives, cucumbers, juicy ripe tomatoes). Instead it was a waste of very interesting accouterments on a very boring base.

Manager George Moskos holds up a great deal for dinner at a truly hidden old Miami fish joint
Steve Satterwhite
Manager George Moskos holds up a great deal for dinner at a truly hidden old Miami fish joint
Manager George Moskos holds up a great deal for dinner at a truly hidden old Miami fish joint
Steve Satterwhite
Manager George Moskos holds up a great deal for dinner at a truly hidden old Miami fish joint
Manager George Moskos holds up a great deal for dinner at a truly hidden old Miami fish joint
Steve Satterwhite
Manager George Moskos holds up a great deal for dinner at a truly hidden old Miami fish joint

Details

305-947-6661. Open daily 4:30 to 11:00 p.m.
488 Sunny Isles Blvd, North Miami Beach

My advice: Ask Jimmy the Problem Solver about this salad problem. Bet you a magnificent margarita he'll solve it.

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