Cooool Breez

Breez

Appetizers include a trio of neat, petite tepees of marinated Scottish salmon surrounding minimounds of scallion cream, each sitting atop a soft potato pancake. The same number of tender crabcakes, practically filler-less, come sided by a savory Napa cabbage slaw and drizzled with balsamic reduction. Both starters were delightful and far less expensive than the Big Three of caviars -- sevruga, osetra, and beluga -- which are offered with traditional accompaniments.

Lobster cobb, one of a quartet of salads, uses blue-cheese-dressed greens to prop up striped rows of diced tomatoes, chopped egg yolks, chopped egg whites, meaty nubs of bacon, half a beautifully ripe sliced avocado -- and lobster, which was cut into such small pieces that its characteristic texture was all but lost. By contrast, juicy clumps of the same crustacean studding a dish of fettuccine absolutely burst with lobsterness, the strands of homemade pasta neatly coated with a bisquelike lobster brandy sauce mellowed with cream.

It has been my wont lately to gripe about the incongruity between main courses and desserts. I'll let you be the judge on Breez, but I will note that these are the sort of finales that don't exactly stretch a pastry crew to their limits: banana split; cheesecake; a brownie so densely fudgy it can feed and gratify three or four; and strawberry shortcake, a wheaty scone sliced in half and garnished with hand-whipped cream and marinated strawberries. Personal reservations on style aside, they're big, sweet, and tasty, as these American favorites usually are.

Julio Lebon at the bar of Breez: Ready for buzz over Billboard to fill the room
Steve Satterwhite
Julio Lebon at the bar of Breez: Ready for buzz over Billboard to fill the room

Location Info

Map

Breez

1500 Ocean Drive
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Music Venues

Region: South Beach

Details

305-532-8999. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sunday through Thursday 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. to midnight or 1:00 a.m.
Fifteenth Street and Ocean Drive, Miami Beach

There are plenty of other things to like about this place: a conch-shell-shaped glowing gold bar that pours, among other things, Guinness on tap; an iridescent lighting scheme that makes it seem almost as though you're viewing the room through a prism (the space is far more impressive at night than in day); friendly and informed waiters (albeit thus far untested by testy crowds).

Breez may have missed the mark with a couple of dishes, but in seeking to provide deliciously fresh sushi and seafood at prices that won't blow you away, its aim is right on target.

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