A Yellowtail of Two Cities

Bond St. Lounge

Excepting a ceviche quartet -- four tiny glass bowls filled with heavenly treatments of marinated lobster, octopus, salmon, and fluke -- the food on our initial trip to Bond wasn't so hot. Literally in the case of a so-called warm shrimp cocktail, which was the temperature of a cold shrimp cocktail left out too long -- as in an hour, which is the time it took to arrive. The waiter apologized for the delay, declaring that our first order of shrimp had been taken to, and accepted by, the wrong table. Lukewarmness notwithstanding, the skewered crustaceans were plump, properly poached, and served in a bamboo steamer basket with a small glass bowl of clarified key lime butter in the center (it took a bit of poking about to discover the pool of cocktail sauce on a leaf at the bottom). I'd like to say that the three other dishes we ordered were enough to tide us over until the shrimp arrived, but the aforementioned ceviche was the size of an amuse bouche; the waiter dropped by to tell us that they were out of the toro tuna; and spicy wing harumaki, a trio of fried conical chicken and kim chee spring rolls, were the size of midget ice cream cones. Worse, the ground chicken within was unremarkable, accented by the weakest of kim chee kicks. After the last of our morsels had vanished, we waited for the check. And waited some more until it finally arrived, but included the tuna. Corrected, with tax and tip (but not including sake or water), the trio of appetizers came to $45. Prices per dish aren't high (excepting specialty sushi, most run from $6 to $14), but you'll need to quaff quite a few to satisfy even a mild hunger. The crowd here can afford it: I counted more pieces of jewelry per table than silverware, and that was just on the men. We heated up some soup upon arriving home.

Subsequent visits occurred earlier in the evening, the room practically empty on both occasions, the waitstaff much more attentive. Our nonsushi food choices were better as well, especially a superb appetizer of steamed black sea bass draped in ginger, scallion, and whole cilantro leaves, with a light oyster sauce and bright chili oil that were, in tandem, more delicately delicious than they sound. A mildly aromatic miso soup with cubes of tofu, wafts of wakame seaweed, and slivers of shiitake also was deftly done, as was our side dish of nasu dengaku, six spears of softly broiled eggplant with sweet miso glaze.

Best bet at Bond St. Lounge? Try the sushi bar
Steve Satterwhite
Best bet at Bond St. Lounge? Try the sushi bar

Location Info

Map

Bond Street Lounge

150 20th St.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: South Beach

Details

305-534-3800. Open daily for dinner, 6:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.
150 20th Street, Miami Beach

Powdered green tea (matcha) dominates a duo of what, for want of a better word, are called desserts: It gets swirled through nuggets of white chocolate (matcha chocolate), which really is a confection, and serves as the base for iced matcha cappuccino, which is just a fancy name given to a serving of iced tea, the matcha naturally forming a froth on top when whisked; a smidgen of red-bean ice cream sat by the side of the glass. The lightly sweet soup of Asian pears proved a more refreshing liquid, the half-cup of fresh nectar flecked with three raspberries, three blueberries, a whisper of crme fraîche and snippet of shisho (a member of the mint family). I enjoyed my few sips, though I couldn't help but think the desserts are probably better in New York, too.

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