Casual Allen's

Paramount Grill

A turkey chop so resembled a pork chop, replete with bone on top and skin running up the side like a strip of fat, that we checked with the waiter to see if he had brought the proper dish. He had. Seared to a golden brown, the moist breast chop was succinctly highlighted with lemon, black olives, and fresh thyme, a novel and delicious way to enjoy this meat that restaurants rarely tinker with. I also appreciated that the trio of chicken dishes -- pineapple barbecue with cashew rice, key lime with yuca fries, and salt and pepper with mashed potatoes -- were cooked whole by rotisserie so that half a bird came on the plate instead of those omnipresent slices of skinless breast.

Of course nothing is more omnipresent than pasta, the quartet proffered here rather pedestrian: angel-hair marinara; penne Bolognese; lemon-pepper fettuccine with chicken, mushrooms, and sun-dried tomato; and linguini with shrimp, prosciutto, and broccoli. The last was deftly done though, al dente noodles bathed in a light white wine sauce with just the right amount of garlic and spice.

Paramount doesn't try to compete with the zillion cheesecakes below, but their single offering is creamily swirled with milk chocolate, crusted with crunchy hazelnuts, and pooled in espresso-anglaise sauce. Best desserts are the warm and homey ones, like apple crumb tart with cinnamon ice cream, and pear caramel cake topped with a cool scoop of maple-walnut. You also can opt for fallen chocolate-banana soufflé, though that seems to me like buying a bicycle with flat tires.

Chef Allen has cooked up a good idea in Aventura
Steve Satterwhite
Chef Allen has cooked up a good idea in Aventura

Details

Open daily for lunch and dinner, Monday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to midnight, Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; 305-466-1466
19501 Biscayne Blvd, Aventura

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Paramount Grill offers fresh, attractive foods that are, all in all, enthralling for a mall. And while it has nothing to do with fine dining, it's nice to have the skilled and seasoned Susser back in the news just the same.

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