Mildly Wild About Harry's

Steve Satterwhite

Modesty will get you everywhere: The low-key charm of Havana Harry's

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Havana Harry's

4612 Le Jeune Road
Coral Gables, FL 33146

Category: Restaurant > Cuban

Region: Coral Gables/South Miami

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305-661-2622. Open for lunch and dinner Monday through Thursday 11:00 a.m. till 10:00 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. till midnight, Sunday noon till 10:00 p.m.

4612 Le Jeune Rd, Coral Gables

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• Havana
• Fidel Castro
• Barcelona Barry
• Eating Out
• Meat

I skipped tres leches as always, because of its overwhelming sweetness. Bypassed the cuatro leches, too, of course, but in fact there's no getting around glucose gluttony with this selection of desserts, so I relinquished my resistance and ordered what turned out to be a light and foamy cheesecake covered by a surprisingly compatible coat of dulce de leche. Crema catalana also was gratifying, the crackly candied crust providing a bit of bitter overlay to the creamiest of custards. Coconut bread pudding, absolutely soaked in coconut milk and pooled in coconut and Bacardi rum sauce, was intensely flavorful, though I don't think even a cinco leches could have been sweeter. Overall desserts are as good as you'll find in Latin restaurants charging twice as much, which pretty much sums up Havana Harry's appeal. You can find better Cuban food and cheaper Cuban food, but you'd be hard-pressed to find better Cuban food at cheaper prices.