SoBe or Not SoBe

Steve Satterwhite

North Beach dining: Under the clowns, next to the mimes

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Baraboo

7300 Ocean Terr
Miami Beach, FL 33141

Category: Music Venues

Region: Mid/North Beach

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Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday 6:00 p.m. till 2:00 a.m. 305-867-4242.

Ravioli with spinach $9.95

Risotto with truffles $13.95

Baby chicken $15.95

Almond-crusted sea bass $25.95

Gateau au chocolat $7.95

7300 Ocean Terr, Miami Beach

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More About

• Baraboo
• Staten Island
• South Beach (Staten Island)
• Eating Out
• Food and Cooking

Mimes in the aisles? Now that's South Beach. So are dessert prices, at $7.95 apiece. The waiter claimed they're homemade, but the petite gateau au chocolat, a warm chocolate cake with a hot oozy center, looked suspiciously like others I've seen elsewhere. Prepared on the premises or not, it's a decent, if extremely sweet treat. Portofoglio, a buttery, slightly custardy almond tart, would have matched up well with a pear sauce as described, but instead was paired with a disappointing mango purée. Like the gateau, it was too petite and one-dimensional for the money.

This is a neat neighborhood restaurant with very good food and friendlier-than-average service, but paying South Beach prices sort of deflates the rationale for not sitting on the more glamorous Ocean Drive or Lincoln Road. Appetizers and entrées aren't by themselves totally unreasonable -- starters run from $9.95 to $12.95, pastas and risottos are about $15, and most main courses range from $21.95 to $25.95 -- but a bottle of water costs $5.50, glass of draft beer is $5, and, as I've mentioned, desserts are $7.95. By the time you share one bottle of water and partake of a glass of beer or wine, an appetizer, main course, and dessert each, skipping coffee but not tax, an extra resort tax, and tip, you'll be spending about $60 to $70 per person. A sober and more modest meal can be had for $45 to $50 apiece, but that's still quite a bit in light of the address reading “Terrace,” not “Drive” -- and with Baraboo at this point being more Tom Tresh than Mickey Mantle.