By David Minsky
By Jen Mangham
By Bill Wisser
By Laine Doss
By Bill Wisser
By Dana De Greff
By Laine Doss
By Zachary Fagenson
The décor, quintessential sanitized south of the border, reinforced my mariachi-based perception that this would be one of those formulaic American-Mexican establishments. One of two indoor dining rooms is dominated by a large, cartoonish green-and-red version of the circular Mayan calendar. The other is more subdued, with terra-cotta-color walls, maple and oak woods, and hanging plants highlighted by kelly-green lights. White linen tablecloths and formally dressed waiters lend an upscale grace to the space, which is pretty much pleasing to the eye. There's also a separate lounge, with a bar in the center and tables for two skirting the walls.
The cuisine is, in fact, gringo-ized, though not to the extent of those chips-and-salsa franchises. Tequila Sunrise serves chips and salsa as well, the latter way too sweet but the thin, crisp chips quite good. Unfortunately after briskly finishing the basket, we were never offered a refill. It's not that the waiters were being stingy but, as we would learn as the evening progressed, it was just one of many things (like empty water glasses and uncleared dishes) they simply overlooked.
3894 SW 8th St.
Coral Gables, FL 33134-3002
Region: Coral Gables/South Miami
We started off with an assorted appetizer platter for two ($17) that was centered by a mound of fresh guacamole. Although reasonably green in color, someone at the table commented that it "tasted too much of the avocado's overripe brown part." This seemed a somewhat obscure and questionable criticism, but it gained credence when a later dish came dressed with brown-splotched wedges of the fruit. Surrounding the guacamole: slices of lightly grilled chorizo; half-inch cubes of moist, savory pork butt (carnitas); a trio of tortilla turnovers filled with melted cheese (quesadillas); three bean-and-cheese nacho triangles; and shredded-beef chimichangas enfolded by soft tortillas that really should have been crisply fried.
Another mixed platter, the fajita combo ($19), sizzled with strips of titillatingly marinated steak and chicken breast, three plump jumbo shrimp, and sautéed green peppers, onions, and mushrooms. A basket of warm, homemade-tasting flour tortillas, and a plate of guacamole, sour cream, shredded lettuce, and pico de gallo (finely minced tomato, onion, and cilantro) afforded us the fun of mixing, matching, and munching away. Fajitas are listed with the entrées, under "house specialties," but we split ours three ways as an appetizer, which worked just fine.
Ceviche comes stocked with either red snapper, scallops, octopus, or lobster (eight dollars). We were lured by the last. The bite-size pieces of lobster were a bit chewy, but tender enough to have succeeded if the lime and cilantro marinade were less sugary. If I had it to do over again, I'd go with the starter of poached octopus and potatoes in olive oil, sea salt, and paprika (eight dollars). Other appetizers: chilled oysters, shrimp cocktail (both eight dollars), and lemon-lime marinated flank steak with button mushrooms (nine dollars).
A parsley- and garlic-imbued medley of scallops, squid, mussels, shrimp, and half a Florida lobster tail, each ingredient cooked to its proper point of tenderness, made up a flawless "Spanish seafood stew" ($21). Steamy, buttery white rice on the side was good too, much tastier than the insipid "Mexican" rice that, with equally uninspired refried beans, accompanies combo-platter favorites such as burritos, tacos, chimichangas, and enchiladas de mole ($12), two corn tortillas wrapped around shredded chicken. The thick, black mole was richly seasoned and properly piquant, but, again, sweeter than it needed to be. The chicken was drier than it needed to be, the clumpy sauce doing little in the way of moistening.
We didn't try camarones al ajillo ($17), which is simply shrimp sautéed in garlic and olive oil, but I would recommend it based on the first-rate way this crustacean was handled in the fajitas and seafood stew. I can also endorse the grilled duck confit, though I'd be more enthusiastic if the kitchen had executed it like the menu implied. The duck wasn't grilled, and though it might have been cooked in duck fat (part of the confit requisite), it certainly wasn't marinated in the complex mix of traditional confit seasonings. That's all right, because the breast and leg were greaselessly delicious, and came with a refreshing cilantro-potato purée. What wasn't all right was the "Mediterranean fig and ancho chili salsa." What intrigued me about the dish in the first place, the salsa, turned out to be a pedestrian brown sauce based on beef, not duck stock, which made for a clumsy complement. Roasted salmon with asparagus and cilantro sauce ($17), veal chop in amontillado sherry sauce ($20), and rack of lamb with ancho chili (or so they say) salsa ($21), are a few of the other main-course offerings. The prices here, as you may note, are more than fair.