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Best Culinary Diaspora

The parrillada

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Published on May 11, 2000

If we knew how popular Argentine steak houses were going to be this year, we would've bought stock in the beef industry. The American beef industry, that is, since most of the Argentine eateries are using the more consistent American Angus rather than the unreliable South American counterparts. But it is the method, as they say, and not the madness that makes something work. And in Argentine steak houses, the method is low-risk investment: high-temperature-grilled meat slipped medium-rare onto your plate and doused with garlicky chimichurri sauce. Doesn't get much more solid than that. No doubt the parrillada is one trend we'll tire of sooner or later. But for now we're just grateful the culinary wind is spreading these steak house seeds throughout the land.