Unstable Marketplace

Steve Satterwhite

At the market fish comes fresh; dishes could use enlivening

Steve Satterwhite

At the market fish comes fresh; dishes could use enlivening

Details

Open daily, 6:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

1601 Biscayne Blvd (in the Wyndham Hotel); 305-374-0000.

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More About

• Peach Melba
• Santa Claus
• Fruits and Vegetables
• Foods

A round, flat, warm apple tart with vanilla ice cream ($7) made for a heavenly dessert, with buttery crust, vanilla ice cream, and smooth caramel sauce. "Chocolate opera torte with Melba sauce and fresh berries" ($7) wasn't nearly as good: three triangular wedges of pedestrian chocolate-marble cake held up by a puff of whipped cream in the center of the plate. Peach Melba sauce was two pools of brightly colored purées -- one peach, one raspberry.

The waitstaff performed their tasks in a personable and professional manner. Someone, though, should be seeing to it that the kitchen puts out a product more closely resembling what the menu promises. As I've said the seafood is fresh. When dining out, however, we not only like to think of our fish as having arrived that day, but also that the proprietors are doing whatever they can to ensure as flawless a meal as possible. If this is the adult equivalent of believing in Santa Claus, all I can say is that I saw a pillow sticking out of The Fish Market's belly.