A Portable Feast

In the world of the lunchero, the food is hot, the drinks are cold, and the turf wars are downright dangerous

Peraza should know. Three years ago an illness forced him to sell his own route. When he returned competition was so fierce he was forced to sign on with De La Torre. "But also I am my own boss. I don't have anyone looking over my shoulder telling me what to do," Peraza says, echoing the spirit of independence that is as much a part of the lunchero lifestyle as the greasy food. "It's a job for a slave," Peraza admits. Then, with a grin, he adds, "if you're good at it."


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