The Frill Is Gone

Atlantic

"The range of vegetables -- found in the market and in our gardens -- makes our heads spin. New varieties, hues, sizes, shapes -- never have there been such choices." That's from The New Basics. Most entrées at Atlantic are bereft of vegetables, and just two, grilled asparagus and sautéed spinach, are available as sides (each $3).

Service is amiable, some waiters more polished than others. Prices are reasonable. The food, notwithstanding the potpie, was fresh and cleanly flavored, as were homemade comfort desserts like banana cream pie and apple tart with luscious buttery crust (both $6). Still, expectations raised by Lukins's involvement aren't being met by what is essentially an uninspired menu executed with little flair. It's not unusual for a restaurant that is this new to rethink and refine a bit to make things just right. Atlantic's "basic" premise is promising, but it's time for the guru to renew with some Yankee ingenuity.

While the setting is inspirational, the food could use some invigorating
Steve Satterwhite
While the setting is inspirational, the food could use some invigorating

Location Info

Map

Atlantic

9449 Collins Ave.
Surfside, FL 33154-2610

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Dade

Details

Open daily. Breakfast from 7:00 till 11:00 a.m., lunch 11:00 a.m. till 4:00 p.m., dinner 5:00 till 10:00 p.m.
9449 Collins Ave (in Beach House Bal Harbour Resort), Surfside; 305-695-7930.

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