You do, and your options are limited, especially when management responds inappropriately to complaints. You can write a letter to the proprietor after the fact or bitch to a local columnist like me. Sadly with a few notable exceptions, neither course of action gets you very far down here. Most likely your paper and ink are tossed into the wood-burning oven, where they're used to roast somebody else's chicken. So despite the previous discourse on etiquette, perhaps it is time to begin walking out on our checks. After all, what stings more, a slap on the wrist or a slap to the piggy bank?