By David Minsky
By Jen Mangham
By Bill Wisser
By Laine Doss
By Bill Wisser
By Dana De Greff
By Laine Doss
By Zachary Fagenson
Oh, yeah -- they serve enchiladas, too, though only as one of the components in the Texas Super Sampler ($5.99), along with a taco, tostada (also available only in this dish), a run-of-the-mill "Spanish"-style rice, and a smooth, almost soupy purée of refried beans (borracho beans, which include bits of bacon, onion, and cilantro, are worth the 25-cent substitution charge). The enchilada and tostada, perhaps because they're not regular menu items, were overly minimalist mimicries: the former a flour tortilla rolled around melted yellow cheese with no enchilada sauce, instead moistened by a thin red liquid that, for all it contributed, may as well have been tomato juice; the tostada a fried corn tortilla with a smudge of beans and greens. I headed straight for the salsa bar, loaded up little plastic cups of three types of chili sauce (red, green, and smoky), chopped onions, jalapeños, and a chunky salsa of tomato, onion, and cilantro, returned to my seat, and enhanced the blandness. The taco was as a taco should be, a few quick bites of chili-seasoned beef and crunch.
Burritos were better, especially the Fat Boy, stuffed with "the works" -- beans, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, guacamole, and sour cream ($2.99). Quesadillas were good, too, crisply griddled, greaseless flour tortillas with melted yellow cheese (both staples of Tex-Mex, as opposed to the white cheese and corn tortillas of Mexico), and an assortment of additional fillings. Nothing beat the fajitas, though: tender, juicy chunks of flank steak and chicken breast grilled to order, with soft, warm flour tortillas made before our eyes. A platter includes two fajitas with rice and beans ($5.79); a family meal provides more meat (one half-pound for $7.99; one pound for $14.99), and the addition of sour cream, grated cheese, and grilled onions. Great deal.
475 S. Dixie Highway
Miami, FL 33146
Region: Coral Gables/South Miami
The Texas Taco Factory aims to satisfy adults as well as kids. I'm not just referring to the absence of any glitzy Pokémon giveaways, but to the half-dozen Mexican beers served in bottles, as well as the Dos Equis Amber on draft, sold by the pitcher or glass. Wine is available in the form of frozen margaritas -- or shall I say, mock-margaritas?
We are what we eat, we mock what we are to become, and I don't want to spend the rest of my days as a thin gray hamburger patty; that's partly why I don't frequent fast-food places. Mostly, though, it's because I don't care for the food. But the fajitas at the Texas Taco Factory are good enough, the rest of the fare fresh enough, and the prices attractive enough, that I just might return. This may not sound like the most ringing endorsement, but you should hear what I have to say about Taco Bell and that damn Chihuahua.