Reach for the Stars

Steve Satterwhite

Star chefs, elegant setting: La Palma d'Or gets top ratings

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Palme D'Or

1200 Anastasia Ave.
Coral Gables, FL 33134

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: South Dade

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Open for dinner Sunday through Thursday, 6:00 to10:00 p.m., Friday and Sat 6:00 to 11:00 p.m.

In the Biltmore Hotel, 1200 Anastasia Ave, Coral Gables; 305-445-1926 (ext 2400).

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More About

• Palme d'Or
• Philippe Ruiz
• Gregory Coutanceau
• Eating Out
• Meat

Portions are moderate, but the richness of ingredients sneaks up on you. Take my word, you will not leave hungry. Do, though, try to leave room for one of pastry chef Michel Chiche's desserts. They're of the fussied, composed variety, in which visuals share precedence with flavors, not my favorite type, but scrumptious, which is what counts. I especially loved the ice creams: A divine key lime and rosemary scoop made the "citrus rose" of grapefruit and orange segments worthwhile regardless of what one feels about citrus, while a very deep bittersweet chocolate sorbet ($10) likewise dominated the light and lovely triangle of hazelnut dacquoise and fanned, caramelized banana that surrounded it. Pistachio ice cream was hardly noticeable on the busy but unbeatable "mikado" plate, what with crisp criss-crossed chocolate wafers, caramel coulis, chocolate sauce, a clump of rum-infused dried fruit, and thin strips of chocolate "antennae" jutting into the air.

La Palme d'Or is quaint, sophisticated, and romantic, the last of these being especially true in the far room, whose windows look out upon the alluringly lit Biltmore pool. With the holidays and you-know-what upon us, this is an ideal place to indulge a loved one -- or one who loves fine food. I give it ************* (thirteen) stars.