Dish

Sam, Sam the Pita Man

To that end Daksa's pita isn't really what Americans know as pocket bread. It's laffa, a thicker and softer version than the commercial sandwich stuff. Daksa calls it tabon, and it has an aroma I last smelled while watching a baker pull scores of them out of an underground oven in Morocco.

Yet Daksa isn't so blindly loyal to Israel that he doesn't see his nation's faults, one of which is the way the businesses are operated. "It's like the Mob over there. Everyone is unethical," he admits. Say what you will about Miami, but at least here it's usually only our politicians who screw the public.

As with many immigrants, possibilities, in the end, drew Daksa here. But an American wife, a newfound fluency in Spanish, and a thriving business could be just the tickets for him to transfer some of his loyalty from Israel to South Florida, which at close to six million has roughly the same population. Thanks to Sam, it only takes a Village to provide us with supple, authentic, and fresh pita bread.

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