Funky Tuna

Fish, chicken, and veal side dishes -- mediocre mashed potatoes, and sauteed broccoli and spinach -- seem standard, because we were served them on both our visits. The wine list, a middling offering of Italian, French, and American vintages priced from $19 to $99, was adequate if not especially interesting. Service, however, unquestionably needs some improvement. The waitstaff's manner is too facile: They use the exact patter with every table. After one server convinced us that custard-filled profiteroles were the way to go for an after-dinner sweet, he returned ten minutes later to tell us the restaurant was out of them. Then, while the busboy hovered as we thought about what we'd like instead, he snapped, "Quick, while he's still here." We ended up with a ricotta cheesecake rife with candied fruit, a garnish that I particularly dislike. Had the waiter been patient enough to answer questions, I would have avoided it.

Still prices are right, and not much is seriously wrong with Fish 54 that can't be fixed. Either drop the references to Studio 54 and disco by rewriting the menu, or make them more obvious to the average diner. Be honest about what you are: Italian food with a conceptual edge. And you might try playing some Andy Gibb and Donna Summer rather than instrumental jazz and Sade. After all that disco ball is there for a reason, isn't it?

Location Info

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Big Pink Restaurant South Beach

157 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Beach

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More About

• Piero Filpi
• Studio 54
• Myles Chefetz
• Seafood
• Foods

Fish 54
18841 Biscayne Blvd, Aventura; 305-932-5022. Lunch and dinner daily from 11:00 a.m. till 11:00 p.m.

Beans on Broadway $4.25
Fly Carpaccio Fly $5.60
Spaghetti Fish 54 $11.50
Chicken Aventura $11.50
Swordfish au gratin $14.

95